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Home Millinery 




Madame Margariete's 

Manual 



CU572832 



IN presenting this manual on the fascinating art of 
making fancy trimmings and teaching the art of 
exclusive millinery in the home, which is useful and 
helpful to any woman, I feel quite sure that the keenest 
pleasure to the needle worker will come from the thought 
that a hint contained in this book enabled her to create 
designs of her own and teach the art of blending colors, 
or all parts pertaining to millinery. I also suggest 
what to wear and how to wear it. 



\)'\^b^ 



tiUN 25 1920 




THIS is the milliner busy at work making her own hat. This shows 
position to hold the frame while sewing the braid or other material. 
You will observe that she is getting her instructions out of JNIme. Mar- 
cariete's Millinery Manual. You will also notice the dainty art there is 
pertaining to millinery. All of this is easy to obtain if you will only follow 
closely the instructions I give in this manual. 

Make hat of straw braid or other material. First cover frame with 
chiffon net or any shir material. Then start center back and bind braid 
over edge. When you have continued around edge do not cut braid ; continue 
around and sew as you work braid; continue the braid around until you 
reach head size, and sew braid to head size wire. 

Make crown of same braid, starting from center back. Bind edge of 
braid like brim; continue around the cro\Mi until you reach the top of crown; 
continue over top of crown until you reach center crown, then sew neatly; 
make neat finish; long stitches should be on under side. Thread should be 
as near the color of the braid as possible. 

When crown is complete, make facing. If straw is desired, start center 
back and sew around; continue around until head size is reached. If velvet 
or silk facing is preferred, stretch material across facing and pin in shape; 
then take wire and work in edge, starting center back, folding velvet edge 
over wire and sewing around wire. Make small stitches to make a neat 
edge. If Georgette crepe facing is desired, use several layers of crepe and 
finish edge same way as velvet facing, making edge of vnre. 

When hat is complete, this hat is pretty trimmed with a wreath of 
flowers and two loops of ribbon in a blending color in center front crown, 
protruding forward. Finish with a knot. This hat can also be trimmed 
with feathers. 

Once you have learned to make hats, you are prepared for any emergency 
that makes it necessary' for you to earn your own living. Should you desire 
to earn a little money, you can make hats for your friends and acquaintances. 
If a larger income is required, a little parlor millinery store, or even a more 
pretentious one. will make that possible. You can be certain that your knowl- 



edge will be equal to any situation that is likely to confront you. What better 
C(yuld you ask? You will have a knowledge and training no one can take 
away from you, and will enable you to earn money whenever and wherever it 
may be necessary for you to do so. 

It will pay you increasing dividends during all the remaining years of 
your life. And this indeed is a duty every woman owes to herself, no matter 
liow comfortably and prosperously she may be situated at present. 

Just think of the hats you have only slightly soiled, perhaps, but are 
woefully out of style, and the wealth of velvets, silks, ribbons, feathers and 
flowers that need only a little sponging, pressing or renovating to make them 
look like new. You probably have enough material in the house with this 
knowledge you will gain from this book to make up several attractive hats, 
hats that would cost you from five to ten dollars or more if purchased in a 
shop. 

BRAID HATS 



Now you commence to experi- 
ence some of the joys of creating 
things with your own hand. The 
foundation made, your work now 
commences to assume the propor- 
tions of the finished hat, and is 
ready for trimming. Braids of all 
kinds are described in this course; 
braids of straw composition, silk 
horsehair, chenille and wool, all 
carefully classified as to the season 
during which they can be appropri- 
ately worn, and their suitability for 
various purposes. You also learn 
how each braid should be sewed on 
the frame to give you a neat, artistic 
effect. 

Millinery for Mature Women 
has been neglected in recent years. 
Milliners offer the mature woman 
little choice between hats for young women and those for quite old persons. 
This book tells plainly how to make stylish and fashionable hats that are ap- 
propriate for the woman from fifty to sixty, as well as for those who are older. 




THIS IS A MILLINER'S OUTFIT 




Shoiving the different articles used in the line of millinery 



HOW TO WIRE A SOFT FLAT 



Measure off four pieces of frame wire 
14 inches in length, and form each one in 
shape of Folks as you see in cut. Wind 
each one with narrow strips of maline the 
shade of the flat. Then place one in the 
front and one in the back and one on 
each side. Turn the one-inch ends into 
the head size and sew them in firm, as 
this end of the wire helps to hold the ^ 
wires in place. Then sew around the wire, 
catching your stitches to the flat at the same time. You can bend the brim 
slightly with these wires if you desire. 

WIRED LACE 

Cut the lace wire the length of the width of the lace, allowing one-half inch 
to turn over. Start by turning over the one-half and place the wire across the 
lace and sew the turned-over edge firm; then sew the wire to the lace with a 
buttonhole stitch, and make your stitches one-half inch apart. Another way 
is to lap the lace over the wire in the shape of a tuck. After the lace is 
wired you can pleat it and stand it up for height. This will make a nice 
trimming for toques. You can also make a decided fan effect for a smart 
trimming for most any hat. 

HOW TO CUT A BIAS 

Take the straight end of the velvet. Fold over the lower left corner 
even with the right edge of goods; then cut off the corner. This leaves a 
perfect bias which is very necessary in making. 

FACING WITH WIRE EDGE 

Place the wire, which is frame wire, around the edge of the facing by 
lapping over the goods of the edge of the facing, and then sewing around, 
making the stitches under the wire, and at the same time catching your stitches 
to the edge of the brim. Try and keep your wire to the extreme edge. 

COLLAR EFFECTS 

Cut goods the desired length and width of collar you may desire. For 
instance, your measurements were three-quarters of a yard in length and three 
inches wide. The foundation is made of cap net or crinoline, and wired 
around the edge and bound. If it is made of flowers it is bound with the 
same color as the hat it is to be placed on. Then cut bias strips one and 
one-half inches in width and fold over and work them across the collar row 
after row until the collar is all made of folds. Then face the other side 
with the same material. Stretch it on plain and turn in the edges and slip- 
stitch around the collar. This collar could be made with* the folds going 
lengthwise. Either way is pretty. It also can be made of flowers or straw. 
These collars can be joined and finished with small loops of ribbon. They 
also can be joined together before working on them. 

What to wear and how to wear it is as follows: 

Most stout people think they must wear a large hat because they are 
large. That is a mistake. Large people should wear a close-fitting hat with 
high effect. This gives a genteel appearance and takes away the stout 
appearance. 

People with sharp features should not wear a pointed hat. A medium- 
size hat should be worn. A person with a short nose or a nose inclined to 
turn up should not wear a short brim hat or a hat that goes off the face. They 
should wear a hat with a rather large brim. 



People with long features should wear a wide brim hat. 

Care should be taken not to wear a hat too heavy looking for the face 
or personality. Most short people know they should wear a high effect. People 
with a short neck should not wear a large flat hat. 

In wearing colors, try and wear a color that becomes your complexion 
and hair. People that are sallow think they must not wear yellow. This 
color will make the person look fair. A person with a high color should not 
wear red or pink. You should wear a color that will tone down your com- 
plexion, such as tan color, taupe or wisteria, or brown. Some shades of blue 
can be worn. 

A person who dresses her hair soft is much easier to fit with a hat than 
the woman who wears her hair plain. Hair that is curled will soften the 
expression of any face, and adds to a woman's beauty. 

A black hat can be worn with any color suit, and is practical. 

MILLINERS' COLORS 

The newest colors in millineiy are taupe, mole, Joffre blue, Copenliagen 
blue, mahogany, beige, tank gray, peacock, henna, kangaroo, tabac, overseas 
blue, brown, canard blue, slate color and mustard. 

HOW TO BLEND COLORS 

Tan, blue and black are striking shades. You can put a delicate shade of 
yellow with pale blue, or yellow with a delicate shade of pink; gold and 
dark shade of blue; gold and canard blue; pink and old rose; reseder green 
and brown; old rose and brown and midnight blue. Peacock blue and golden 
brown blend softly together; yellow and royal blue, and black and bisque 
blend; violet with a touch of red, green and brown are good staple colors 
together; green and blue; mahogany and Alice blue; tan and green; tan and 
green and blue. Three shades together are Nile green, light pink and pale 
blue; these are blending colors. 

HOW TO COMBINE FLOWERS 

Roses and forget-me-nots; pink roses and white lilacs are pretty; violets 
and red roses placed here and there, or a red cherry in place of the red rose 
is effective. 

Wreaths made of foliage and berries and cherries are used around brims. 
Wreaths made of small flowers and roses and foliage; pansies and forget-me- 
nots, or violets and forget-me-nots. Pansy crowns and rose crowns are in 
vogue. Small flowers and fine rose foliage make dainty wreaths. A large 
leghorn hat trimmed with jack roses and a facing of black velvet makes a 
beautiful garden hat and is always in vogue. 

(French Knots.) French knots are used to touch off the trimming in 
some lines of work. It is handy to know how to make this stitch, as it can 
be used in your embroidery work or in your dress trimmings. Put the needle 
up through the goods from the wrong side. Before pulling it through the 
goods, wind on your needle about three or four times the thread. Hold the 
thread down on the goods with your left thumb; put the needle down through 
as near the same place where it came up from as possible; draw down so the 
knot looks smooth. Make these knots all of the same number of thread to 
keep them the same size. Colors blended together are veiy effective. 

(Back Stitch.) This is used in millinery in joining goods together 
where you have no sewing machine. Make a stitch as in the running stitch; 
instead of taking the next stitch beyond the first, place the needle way back 
in the next stitch and take one twice as long; take each one back to the one 
preceding it. It is much stronger than the running stitch. Do not pull your 
stitches too tight or too loose. This should take the place of a machine 
stitch. You will get the same result if you make your stitches perfect, as 
you would if sewing with a machine. You only gain more speed by sewing 
with the machine. 



(Fancy Bands.) Eyelets are small round holes punched in goods with 
a stiletto, and -worked around over and over. Eyelets are used on fancy 
bands. These bands are four inches wide and twenty-seven inches in length. 
They are used in trimming, and are very expensive when purchased at the 
wholesale house. They are used around coronets and very often placed around 
a side crown. A large flat hat with a fancy band draped prettily around 
on the brim requires no other trimming. These bands are made on maline, 
chiffon or crinoline. When using crinoline, cover up the crinoline as much 
as possible. If maline, net or chiffon is used, you can let some of this 
material be exposed and it wU add to the beauty of the band. 

Hand embroidery can be placed on these bands, embroidered with dif- 
ferent colored silk floss, such as dark blue and yellow, or lemon shades with 
a dainty shade of pink, also brown. These colors all blend and are flashy. 
Lace designs can be cut out of lace and colored the desired shade and placed 
on the bands to effect; using French knots or buttons made of silk or 
chiffon placed in between the lace designs; straw buttons can also be used for 
a summer band. For a winter band, silk or soutache braid or chenille can 
be used also to add to the beauty of the band. 

Midsummer hats are pure white and trimmed with mostly white. Very 
little color is used on them; if any, mostly black, such as black velvet ribbon. 

Outing hats are also trimmed up for the seashore. They are Panama, 
hemp or chip, mostly Panama. White Milan is sometimes used. They are 
trimmed with soft silk or satin. These silks sometimes have figures in them, 
such as large dots of dark colors or circles and square effects. These novelty 
silks are veiy much used for the outing hat, and only draped softly around, 
and sometimes caught with a straw buckle. This buckle you can make 
yourself of straw and cords of silk. 

Midsummer hats are worn in June, July and August. These hats can be 
made up for Palm Beach in the winter time, if you have the trade of people 
who frequent those places, but in this climate they are only used for the 
midsummer. Outing hats are worn with summer suits, not to be worn with 
fluffy gowns, only with simple summer dresses or suits, such as linen, and 
can be worn with shirtwaist and skirt. 

STITCHES USED IN WORKING IN MILLINERY 

(Blind Stitch.) This is used in roll hemming, or in bands where the 
stitch must not show on the right side. Run the needle between the founda- 
tion goods and the trimming with a running stitch; take the stitch through 
the foundation, but only through the under side of the trimming, or where 
the velvet rolls over into the turned-in edge of the bias strip. 

(Running Stitch.) This is where small stitches are taken evenly. This 
is used in shirring or joining pieces of material together, and making tucking, 
gathers and casings, sewing braids, and sewing braids on ornaments. The 
work should be held evenly together with the left hand, while the needle is 
held in the right, and pushed back and forth through the material, making 
as many stitches on the needle as possible before pulling it through. You 
should practice this stitch, and in time you will be able to do them without 
looking at your work. 

(Cat-Stitching.) This is used in plain hemming, bias strips of velvet 
to be used for trimming, and also silks. The stitch is used where the goods 
are too heavy to turn in twice. Turn the hem over the desired width without 
having it turned in at the edges. Hold the work so the hem will run away 
from you. Take a stitch first in the hem and then in the goods, in the hem 
again and again in the goods, holding the needle pointed towards you, and 
making the stitches cross each other, so that they resemble a rail fence. This 
is cat-stitching, and the same hemming is shown further in the book for plain 
iiemming. 

(Buttonhole Stitch.) This is used in many ways in milliner^'. It is 
used in sewing in the head lining, and for finishing in trimmings. To make 



the buttonhole stitch, put the needle up through the goods a few threads 
from the inner end of the slash; before pulling it through, take hold of the 
thread near the needle, throw it over the needle and pull through. Repeat 
this for each stitch until you have been around the part being worked. The 
beauty of this stitch is to have them all the same length, perfectly even. 

(Milliner's Fold.) This is used around the edge of hats, and used very 
much on mourning work. Cut a bias strip two inches in width, turn down 
one edge one-half the width of the strip; then turn down the other one- 
quarter of an inch. Turn the narrow edge half way up on the broad edge 
and blind stitch. This is in another place. You will need the blind stitch 
as per instructions. The blind stitch is used a great deal in millinery, as 
there is so much sewing that should be hid. 

(Shirring.) Shirring is done in two ways. One is for tucks and the 
other for plain shirring. 

Plain Shirring: You run the thread through the goods with very small 
and even stitches; push the goods up on the needle and off on to the thread, 
until it is the desired fullness, keeping it even. Take care not to get it too 
full or it will lose its beauty. Put in as many threads as you wish, keeping 
them at an equal distance apart. Put in all the threads before pulling up 
the threads to make the shirs, keeping the fullness the same on each thread. 

Tuck Shirring: Instead of just running the thread in, as in plain shir- 
ring, take up a tuck each time, about one-eighth of an inch wide or one- 
quarter of an inch if large tucks are desired. Shove up on the thread as in 
plain shirring; make as many tucks as desired an equal distance apart. 
These tucks are used a great deal in winter seasons. Chiffon tucked is soft 
and pretty for the summer hat, and makes a soft, fluffy trimming. It is also 
pretty in maline. They can be made as wide as one inch apart, and even 
more. 

HOW TO MAKE A FLANGE 

Cut a bias strip of silk 
or velvet three inches wide. 
If it is a large size hat two 
strips of material are 
needed. Sew together by 
machine; then stretch 
around brim tight and pin 
around as you stretch, 
allowing for joining. Then 
take it off and sew together 
by machine; then pin back 
in place again; then work shirring wire around on the edge of flange, sewing 
the same as you do edge wires; then sew wire on the other side of the 
flange. It is always wise to baste the second wire in before sewing; to avoid 
fullness on the inside edge of this flange, stretch the goods well in width 
and pin before sewing. 

HOW TO MAKE A TAM OSHANTER CROWN 

Cut a circle of velvet or silk measuring eighteen inches across circle. 
Face the circle with mull; pleat around the edge or shir and place on crown, 
bringing the edge of the circle one inch from the base of the crown. Finish 
around with a bias strip. 

HOW TO SEW FUR 

In cutting fur cut on the skin side with a small knife, such as a sharp 
pocketknife, and pull it apart. This will not cut the fur. Match the fur by 
having the nap running the same way, then turn over and sew on the skin 
side with an overcasting stitch. 

8 




VELVET RIBBON 

Velvet ribbon goes by numbers. Widths that are most used are: 
No. 3 No. 5 No. 7 No. 9 No. 12 No. 16 No. 32 

HOW TO MAKE VELVET HATS 

Fall Season Shapes 

When you purchase a frame, you look it over carefully and wonder how 
will I start to make it. Madam Margariete will show you. If it is desired of 
velvet or silk, take a sheet of tissue paper and stretch it over the frame, cut 
out the head size, then lay the pattern on the velvet; cut out around the 
pattern, allowing one-half inch around the edge; cut top and bottom; then 
cut pattern for crown; place the tissue paper on top of crown, cut out, then 
around side crown ; lay these patterns on the velvet and trim out, allowing 
one-half inch around each pattern. Now the goods are cut, take the top piece 
for the frame and stretch over the top and pin into place; turn over the 
edge and sew to the frame; make an overcasting stitch from the frame to 
the velvet; do not allow the stitch to go through to the top; this you will 
find somewhat awkward to do, but practice makes perfect; when the top is 
on, place the facing on and turn in the edge one-half inch and pin around; 
then finish with a wire, as shown on the first page of this manual. To make 
the crown, place the top on and pin around, then draw down the edge to the 
side and sew around; place the side crown around, pin, then finish the top 
with a wire same as the edge, or slipstitch around the top; turn in the bottom, 
slipstitch around. The hat is complete for trimming. If you wish to cover 
a wire frame, it should be covered ^vith braid, net or chiffon. 

PRESSED SHAPES 

Pressed shapes are dressy faced. Take velvet ; stretch over facing. Trim 
off, allowing one-half inch to turn under for edge. Turn edge over wire 
and sew around wire with small stitches. Then sew in tlie head size. 

SHIRRED FACING 

For shirred crepe de chine facing, cut strip of crepe de chine width of 
brim, allowing one and one-half inches for turning. Measuring twice around 
brim makes sufficient fullness. Then shir on wire. First measure wire 
around edge, allowing three inches lap. Place material over wire three- 
quarters of an inch; then shir around with shirring string. After it is shirred, 
place on hat on edge of facing; then sew around wire; after edge is sewed 
on draw it into facing, sewing as you draw it in. Then line. 

Old materials can be utilized in this manner. Old velvet can be steamed 
like new. 

BANDEAUX 

How to make bandeaux: Cut out paper pattern circle size of head; then 
allow one-inch width. Lay pattern on cap net or buckram and cut out and 
wire both edges. Then cut strip on the bias wide enough to stretch over and 
sew — of silk or velvet. 

This bandeaux is to make a smaller head size. A bandeaux to make hat set 
up higher on the head is made in like manner, as follows: 

Cut one-inch strip of stiffening, length of head size; then wire top and 
bottom; then cover with silk or velvet. Place this in head size and sew around. 




TRIMMINGS 

No. 1 — Cut paper pattern; lay on crinoline, buckram or capenet and cut out; 
then wire around edge and bind with some light material. If you do 
the wings of silk, lay the wing on the goods and pin, then trim around 
edge, allowing one-half inch to turn in. Make both sides the same. 
After this is complete, turn in and slipstitch around. If a braid edge 
is desired, lap braid over edge, sewing around. A velvet binding is 
also effective. 

IVo. 2 — Cut paper pattern like cut of quill No. 2 and pin on cap net or crino- 
line, and trim out ; bind edge with wire. After it is wired bind with 
some soft material and make like No. 1, using the same instructions. 

No. 3 — Cut paper pattern like cut No. 3. Lay on cap net or crinoline; cut 
out; make two-ply wire around edge and bind; make wing of folds, 
cutting bias strips one and one-half inches wide and sew on the wing, 
running lengthwise, like shown in cut. The other half of the wing 
sew folds across, like shown in cut, as this gives the wing the feather 
effect. Then face the other side plain. A pair of wings can be used. 

No. 4 — Hand-made flower. Cut a strip of silk or satin one and one-half 
inches wide. Fold over and run shirring thread through ribbon, like 
cut, making strips four inches long. Then shir up and form flower. 
Then cover a bead and place in the center. Take branching and make 
the stems by tying silk floss around the wires and form a cluster. 
Large roses can be made by the same method by cutting the strips 
wider. 

10 



DIFFERENT WIRES USED IN MILLINERY 

Frame wire is used for making frames. Tie wire is used for tying the 
w'ires together in making frames. Brace wires are used for bracing the 
frames. Shirring wire is used in shirred edges of facings, etc. 

Lace wire is used for wiring ribbons. Branching wire is used for branch- 
ing flowers. Cable wire is used for edges of brims. 

DIFFERENT STIFFENINGS USED IN MILLINERY 

Buckram, crinoline and capenet. Mull is used for covering frames. Rice 
net is also used. 

DIFFERENT KINDS OF FACINGS USED FOR HATS AND BONNETS 

Chiffon facings with headings. Ruffled Valenciennes; ruffled ribbon; 
basket weave ribbon; bias chiffon fold facing; shirred silk with cable cord; 
knife-pleated facing; foliage facing; bias flange facing and fur facing. 

DIFFERENT KINDS OF CROWNS USED IN MILLINERY 

Lace-covered crowns. Pleated one-piece crowns; chenille crowns; fancy 
skeleton crowns; two-tone velvet crowns; draped crowns; circular crowns, and 
crowns made of a square. 

HOW TO PUT ON A BINDING 

In making a binding for a brim, you cut velvet or silk on the bias. If a 
one-inch binding is desired, measure through the center of the bias three 
inches wide; cut two strips; join together by machine; place on edge of brim 
and pin; then stretch around over edge as tight as possible without bending 
the frame. Take off; join by machine; place back on edge of brim by stretch- 
ing, as per instructions. Turn in both sides the desired width, and pin around; 
then slipstitch through brim under the edge of the binding, stitching back 
and forth until the circumference of the binding is complete, taking care not 
to show stitches or impressions of stitches. 

MILLINERY FOLDS 

Cut bias strips one and one-half inches wide and pin one end on your 
knee, and then hold in position so you can take a stitch from one edge to 
another, back and forth. When placing this fold on the hat, stretch and pin 
in place. After the fold is all pinned, slipstitch around the outside edge of 
the fold. 

PUFFED EDGE 

Cut bias strip three and one-half inches wide. Measure through the 
center, cutting two strips the same width; join together in a circle; take cable 
cord, turn over one-half inch of one side, shir around, cut off cord; place cord 
on the other side the same way. Draw up cord and shirring to fit edge of 
brim; pin around and sew back and forth through the shirring until the puffing 
is all sewed in place. Keep siiirs even. 

HOW TO COVER CABLE CORD 

Cut bias of velvet or silk a little wider than the cable cord. Place the 
cord in the velvet and pin one end to your knee; stretch the velvet over the 
cord and turn in both edges, and sew with a small Avhipstitch. 

OLD STRAW HATS RENOVATED 

If it is a hand-made hat, rip the straw all off the frame. The same 
frame can very often be used by opening up the edge wires, either by adding 
to the wires or taking away; it can be made in most any style desired. Steam 

11 



the braid and recover the frame; sew braid on as per instructions herein. 
Velvet or silk hats can also be ripped apart and steamed, and frame altered 
and made over. 

HOW TO STEAM VELVET 

A small steamer can be purchased and placed in the spout of a teakettle. 
Put a cup of water in the kettle and let it come to a boil; then take the 
velvet, hold it over the steam, the back of the velvet to the steamer. This 
will rub out all creases and rusty pinholes. If desired, this can be done with- 
out a steamer, just by holding the velvet over the spout of the kettle in the 
same manner as the above instructions. Velvet ribbons can be steamed by 
this same method. Your last season's straw and pressed shapes can be 
steamed, and if they still look shabby, a dressing such as jetum can be used, 
and this will make the hat look like new. 

HOW TO HEM VELVET 

Most velvet that is used for trimming is hemmed. Cut your velvet on 
the bias the desired width. If a plain hem is wanted, turn over once, pin the 
end of strip to your knee, and hold the strip in your left hand and sew with 
your right, taking one stitch on the part turned over and another on the part 
that is not turned over. You work back and forth from one side to the 
other. This keeps the right side of the velvet from having the appearance 
of stitches. 

ROLL HEM 

A roll hem is made as follows: Cut strip of velvet or silk as you do for 
a plain hem. Turn over twice, then slipstitch, taking one stitch underneath 
of the roll and the next one on to the goods, sewing on in this manner until 
the hem is complete, being careful that the stitches are not seen. 

HOW TO CURL SILK FOR A TRIMMING 

Cut bias strip of taffeta the desired width. Curl over edge with the 
scissors or a curling knife by drawing the goods over the blade of the knife. 
When shirred up it will make a feathery trimming for around the crown of a 
hat, such as a sailor. 

HOW TO FRINGE RIBBON 

Take the end of the ribbon and slash on both sides as deep as you want 
the fringe, and slash through the center. Take a pin and pick out the threads. 
You will find they will come out easy after being slashed as per instructions. 

ROSETTES OF RIBBON 

Cut a circle of capenet or crinoline five inches in width; bind with the 
same color as the ribbon. Take ribbon three inches in width and make tiny 
loops one inch long. Make the first loop sew on the edge of the circle; 
make another loop sew down on the circle, another, and continue around 
and around until the center is reached with row after row of these loops. 
Then after the center is reached open out the loops so that they look full. 
This makes a very pretty rosette for children's hats. A rosebud placed here 
and there in the rosette of a different shade will add to the beauty. 

ROSETTE OF RIBBON LOOPS MADE ON WIRE 

Take ribbon wire one-half yard in length. Make a loop of ribbon one 
inch in length, and place on the end of this wire; make another loop; sew or 
wind your thread around the wire; make another loop, and sew or wind 
your thread around the wire; make loop after loop until the half yard of 
wire is filled with small loops. Divide the wire of loops and join together 

12 



each end. This will make two circles of just pretty loops of ribbon. These 
circles can be placed on a hat, such as a leghorn or chip, and draw ribbon 
through them. It makes a beautiful trimming, and is used on hats for most 
any age. 

Ornaments of soutache braid are used in millinery as well as in dress- 
making. 

Cut a circle of buckram the size ornament desired, or cut it square. Any 
shape can be used to make this ornament. If the center of the ornament 
is open, wire around the outside and inside edge; then cover the buckram 
with silk or satin; start the soutache braid around the edge; sew around 
three rows, then start at the inside edge and sew two rows; this will leave 
a space in the center. Start the braid in the center crosswise, going from 
side to side, turning the braid as you work. This gives a good effect. Then 
after the buckram is covered make balls of silk, one-half inch balls; cut 
small circles of silk and stuff them with cotton; shir up and sew soutache 
braid around them, leaving three inches of braid to hang. Make six or eight 
of these balls, and take each one separate and sew the braid to the ornament 
one after the other, along the one side of the ornament, and the balls will 
droop down. 

These ornaments can be made without the balls if desired; they only 
add to make the ornament graceful. 

These ornaments made in a five-inch size can be placed on the front part 
of a crown on a tailored hat, and need no other trimming. 

In a smaller size they are used to finish off trimming. 

Ornaments can be made of straw braid by folding over the braid and 
sewing around, as the soutache braid. Folds of silk can be used with cords 
placed in them before sewing, and then sewing along the cord. 

OvERCASTiiNC is a slanting stitch taken over and over the raw edge of the 
goods. This is used in millinery in sewing fur together. As you cannot turn 
the kid under you must overcast the two raw edges together. Plush is joined 
together in this manner, as it keeps the nap closer together and will not 
show a join. 

HOW TO VEIL FEATHER HATS AND WINGS 

Should your feather hat show that it is coming apart, as all feather hats 
do in time, take one layer of maline and place over the crown and sew a 
loose stitch here and there. Then cut another piece to place over the brim 
and turn in around the edge and slipstitch. This will hold all the feathers 
in place, and make your hat look like new. 

To veil wings, some milliners veil wings before they are placed on the 
hat; just cover the wing with maline and sew on the wrong side. This will 
keep them from falling apart. If the maline begins to wear, cut it off and 
place on new. 

Pleated Maline Rosette. Cut a circle of capenet or crinoline. Wire 
the edge with lace wire; bind the edge with maline several thicknesses; 
pleat maline two inches in width and sew around edge of circle row after 
row into center. Two of these rosettes placed together make a nifty trim- 
ming for a sailor hat. Place it at center front of crown. In folding maline 
for pleating make three-ply, then pleat side pleat or box pleat. In making 
box pleat you fold one pleat to the right and the next to the left, and sew on. 
This makes a box pleat. 

Fancy Stickup. Cut pattern seven inches in length, two inches in width. 
This can be made of small roses or maline. Cut it of capenet or crinoline. 
Wire around edge. Sew roses row after row on both sides. If made of maline, 
make your pleating and sew row after row across the stickup, allowing the 
first row to protrude beyond the stickup, and do the other side the same way. 
This makes a soft, fluffy trimming. 

A new idea is seen in leaves cut from taffeta in the shapes of ivy leaves, 
and stitched in a contrasting color around the edge. A boat-shaped turban 

13 



for an older woman is made entii'ely of these leaves fashioned of navy' taffeta. 
Another model, more of a roll sailor, has blue leaves stitched in white arranged 
as a wreath. The effect is extremely good. 

Maline Plume. Take frame wire and double the wire and cut piece as 
long as any ordinal' plume. Start and make loops of the maline. Make 
first loop, then tie to the wire; make another loop and tie to the Asire; keep 
making loops and tying to the wire until the wire is full of loops. Then 
open them out. This makes a fluffy plume. 

How TO Make Ribbon Bow. Wire ribbon with lace wire through center. 
Then make one long loop; wind thread around loop; then make short loop; 
wind thread around loop; another long loop, another short lop, another long 
loop, another short loop. This makes three long loops and three short loops. 
Then separate the long loops from the short ones and twine ribbon around 
and form knot. This makes a nice bow for side trimming or side back of a 
sailor hat. 

HOW TO MAKE A TASSEL 

Cut a piece of cardboard as long as you wish the tassel. Take silk 
embroidery crochet thread, and wind over the cardboard several thicknesses; 
then lift off and tie. Then wind around about an inch from the end to give 
the loop effect like on a tassel. 

HOW TO LINE A HAT 

Measure the depth of your crown. Cut a strip as wide. Measure three 
times across crown for the length, allowing one inch to turn in. Take the 
strip and start in the back of center crown and lay one edge of lining close 
to the edge of head size and sew the stitches one inch apart. After you are 
around the head size then join the ends together and run a shirring string 
around the other edge. Use baby ribbon, and draw through. Draw up and 
tie a small bow. If a crown tip is desired, leave opening enough to set the 
tip in. 

Lace hats or net hats should be lined with net or maline. 



HOW TO WORK ON OSTRICH FEATHERS 

How TO Clean Ostrich Feathers: Take lukewarm water and wash. 
A small handkerchief washboard is very good to rub them on. Don't get 
frightened and tliink the feather is spoiled. After it is well rubbed, dip in 
lukewarm water. Then dissolve lump starch, making it thick and putting 
in a little washing blue. Soak the feathers in this and squeeze them out and 
hang up to dry. When half dry take them down and take hold of the stem 
and beat the feather on something hard until it is dry and fluffy. Hang near 
heat or in the sun. After well dried curl. 



How TO Curl Feathers: Have 
across your lap or on the table, 
picking up three or four flues 
at a time and curl over knife. 
Keep picking up the flues and curl- 
ing until all the flues are curled. 
Try not to make the flues look 
like corkscrews. Keep near the 
edge of the flues. One turn of 
the knife is sufiScient. All feath- 
ers should be steamed before curl- 
ing; this keeps them from 
breaking. 

How TO Wire Feathers: Lay 
your feather across your lap, head 



a curling knife; lay your feather 




on knee and face up. Separate flues; take lace wire and sew down through 
center, catching stitches through side of rib, making a buttonhole stitch. 
Make stitches two inches apart. The rib goes through the center. After 
it is -wired you can twist it in any position you desire. 

Some wings are wired also, so that the wing can be placed in any 
position desired. 

Quick Method in Coloring Feathers: Take tube paint and dissolve 
it in gasoline, and dip feather in. It \«11 dry quickly. French milliners 
color many feathers after this process. Wings can also be colored in this 
same manner. 

How TO Wire Ridbon: Pin one end on your knee: sew lace wire in 
the center, making a buttonhole stitch. Catch up a thread of the ribbon, 
taking care that it does not show through on the other side. \'elvet ribbon 
can be wired by this method. 










.'ilitrlies 0} slurring used in tnillinery 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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